The new season of Milan Fashion Week was held from the 10 to 14 January 2020, this fashion week held 77 collections, of which 26 are fashion shows, 46 presentations. Great names on the calendar this year calendar, creating special events that is designed to highlight the tremendous creative and entrepreneurial capacity of Italian fashion and its production chain.
Fashion week kicked start with Dsquared2 who celebrated their 25th anniversary paying a tribute to their history and iconic moments, Cardigan coats, vests, in ribbed silk, fuzzy mohair and cashmere are layered one over the other in sensual styling, and the check shirt—a staple of the Dsquared2 wardrobe—in linen for winter has a worn-in finish. The collection reveals its heart in the phrase ‘love is…’, taken from a comic strip by cartoonist Kim Casali which was inspired by a series of love notes she drew for her future husband. Following the same night in the program was Ermenegildo Zegna In this geometric forest of ribbons, the Ermenegildo Zegna XXX Winter 2020 collection materializes. Three-button suits with slightly boxy, one-breast-and-a-half jackets and tapered trousers are worn under puffy blousons; zip-up overshirts with low collar lines replace traditional shirting. The tailored waistcoat makes a comeback, as a passe- partout, with or without the suit. A process of constant morphing defines evolved shapes: wraparound, belted blazers; voluminous coats with deep back pleats; coat/parka fusions; shirts that double as short-sleeved blousons.
Second day was a combination between great shoes and outstanding presentation. A show that grabbed our attention was Dolce &Gabbana. The designers aim during the show was to tell a story of a journey through the intricate skill of handmade craft and creativity; two worlds that communicate emotion and tangible express of the Italian tradition to pass on from generation to generation. Another great presentation on the same day was Brunello Cucinelli, always known for their great finishing and beautiful soft wool, the Italian giant presented another great collection in their headquarters. Two great shoe designers showcased same day as well, started with Jimmy Choo and in the evening, it was Church’s night, a presentation located in a British themed hotel in the mid of Milan presenting new sneakers and high tops for next winter.
Day three was a busy day Marking Salvatore Ferragamo’s return to Milan’s menswear schedule. Ferregamo’s Creative Director Paul Andrew embarks upon a playful exploration of the increasingly diverse and fluid and free nature of contemporary masculine identities. The opening look, for instance, features a peacoat (Sailor) in Scottish herringbone tweed (Businessman) with a double pleat at the front drawn from 1980’s Japanese beachwear. Prada Prada Prada, always one of the highlights of men’s fashion week, the collection presents synchronous yet antonymous viewpoints on tradition, on the known, on nature – human, and otherwise. A fantasizing of the classic. The collection constantly explores an uncertain metaphysical hinterland, caught between two poles, seen from a different vantage. This idea is expressed boldly through fabrication: traditional materials are combined with technologically innovative, recycled fibers in chromatic colors. Brightly colored, two-dimensional, a representation or gesture rather than a reality, while styled graphics and colors echo an unnatural nature. Moving to the presentation side, Santoni presented yet another great collection of footwear in a super cool atmosphere. Following that evening Tods new creative director Walter Chapponi debuted his first men’s collection presenting a wardrobe that rediscovers the classics, displaying elegance as an attitude, imprinted within a tough gentlemen rebellion. In terms of accessories the star of the show was the Winter Gommini, a true Tods icon.
Day four for us was Tom Ford and Fendi day. At Tom Ford presentation we saw suits that are in multitude of hues and fabrications of which had Prince of Wales wool and gently washed denim best. In addition to matching jacket, the pant shape in denim was headily evocative of the early-to-mid-’90s. In addition to the powerful supporting performances delivered by a crocodile and shearling Western jacket in russet pinkish tones both cutely accessorized by neck slung AirPods and iPhone cases in leather. Following Tom Ford was Fendi show. A Collection designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi re-imagines a new normal, where ‘traditional’ garments are not always what they seem. Alternating a sartorial canon of melton wool, heavy twill and flannel with the plush hand of shearling, flocked denim and corduroy suede, the Collection evolves through the application of trompe l’oeil fabrics and transforming proportions. Another cool twist during the show was the play on interior and surface in the presentation of bags that appeared to be pieces of Fendi yellow packaging, rather than actual Fendi products. Silvia Venturini Fendi collaborates with the Japanese designer Anrealage on a selection of photochromic outerwear and accessories. As the first Ready-to-Wear designer to utilize UV color-changing fabric technology.
Closing men’s fashion week was the giant Gucci who returns to the men’s catwalk. Alessandro Michele invited his guest to “revise and reconsider” the characteristics of masculinity through a real journey in clothing back to childhood. The mid of runway had a huge pendulum that ticktocked back and forth. A baby blue coats and some of the jeans featured the green bruising of grass stains. Grabbed our attention as well the two bags featured the word fake on one side and not on the other, while T-shirts read “impatience” and “impotence.”